Learn Makeup Secrets
You could say that I have a love/hate relationship with makeup.
Some days I enjoy playing with all the different colors and get
excited when my smoky eye turns out perfectly.
But then there are those days when my liner refuses to go on
straight, my bronzer makes me look like an Asian Snookie, or my lashes
refuse to curl. That's when I want to toss my makeup bag out my
bathroom window.
I had one of those days last week, and after walking into work wearing two very different winged tips on my eyes, my editor assigned me a new story: Go to makeup school and write about it.
Want to see the best techniques I picked up without spending the
thousands of dollars (and crazy amount of time) it takes to go to
makeup school yourself?
Lesson No. 1:
Spend some bucks on your tools
At Napoleon Perdis' Makeup Academy in Hollywood, Rebecca Prior, NP's
National Educator, begins the first lesson by introducing us to our
tools. "To me, tools and products are equally as important as the makeup
skills that you have," she says. For example, let's say you were
using mediocre brushes, mediocre products, and had average skill. Just
by improving the quality of your brushes and using richer pigmented
products, the application would immediately be better, even without
improving your technique. So if you really want to apply your makeup
like a pro, Los Angeles-based educator Felicia Alva says, "Do what the
professionals do: Use the proper brushes for application."
Here are the eight basic brushes you need:
1. Foundation brush
2. Concealer brush
3. Fluffy powder brush
4. Blush brush
5. Small blending brush
6. Flat eyeshadow brush
7. Precision angle brush
8. Lip brush
Once you have your tools, you need to know how to hold them. Make
Up For Ever educator Lijha Stewart says, "Where you hold a brush on
the handle affects your control. The closer your fingers are to the
barrel (the silver section beneath the brush head), the more pressure
you put on the brush head and vice versa." In general, if you want to
apply color evenly, place your fingers on the center of the brush
handle. Another tip: You can easily turn a fluffy brush into a flat,
angled brush by wrapping your hand around the bristles and flattening
them.
Lesson No. 2:
Mix primer with your foundation
I'm sitting in Make-up Designory's Beauty 101 classroom and I'm
anticipating today's lesson to be quite the bore-fest. I'm barely paying
attention as lead instructor Gil Romero goes through the three
different types of foundation: liquid, powder, and cream. Yawn. Wake me
up when I'm going to learn something new.
It seems like Romero read my mind, because he immediately hit me
with this tip: "You can wear cream foundation as is for opaque, full
coverage, or you can break it down to be more translucent by mixing it
with some primer," he says. What? Isn't primer only supposed to go on
before foundation? But Romero says this is a surefire way to
retain the foundation's coverage without looking caked on. Plus, you
get to reap the long-lasting durability that cream foundation has over
liquids and powders. Prior says this also helps the makeup blend
seamlessly with the first layer of primer on your skin.
I raise my hand at this point and ask if cream foundation is OK for
oily skin. This is a selfish question, because I struggle with a
mid-day oily T-zone. Make-up Designory educator Yvonne Hawker (who
also wrote the school's textbook) says everyone can use cream
foundation, but those with oily skin should use a damp sponge to apply
it. Most foundations have oil in its formula to give the coverage
blend-ability. Using the sponge will "pick up the pigment, but not the
oil in the foundation." You'll still get great coverage, but not the
shine.
For dry or combination skin types, "use your foundation brush and
buff the foundation onto the skin, concentrating on the center of your
face, which is typically where your skin has the most discoloration,"
says Hawker. "The further you get from the center, the less coverage
you want."
Lesson No. 3:
Love your flaws — then conceal them
It's day 3 at makeup school and there's a color wheel on the
whiteboard. "The key to being a successful makeup artist is being able
to identify someone's undertones and know how to manipulate the color
wheel to get rid of unwanted color," says instructor Gina Sandler.
And when Sandler says "unwanted color," I immediately tune in
because I want to learn how to cover up my zits, the stubborn redness
around my nose, and the bluish hues under my eyes. She says opposite
colors cancel each other out, so green-pigmented concealer covers
redness, and orangey concealer removes blue. "If you use your beige
concealer, it'll only make those areas look muddy," says Prior.
Once Sandler shows us how she gets rid of zits, redness around the
nose, and under-eye bags on one of the students, she then pairs us off
and has us practice on each other's makeup-free faces. Immediately,
all of my insecurities start bubbling up. My bags, my zits, my dark
spots … is someone seriously going to be inches away from them? Then
one of the students says, "Ugh, I'm so ugly." Sandler responds, "No,
you're so cute! You all are!" It's makeup school, but it starts to
feel more like we're in a group therapy session. Sandler says
practicing on each other is key because you quickly learn how to deal
with all types of skin tones and facial features, which you will have
to become comfortable with if you want to be a professional.
Lesson No. 4:
Fix your face shape
So here's a not-so-secret confession: I hate my face. It's rounder
than a Cabbage Patch Kid's and I can't stand my button nose. So when
Prior says today's lesson is learning how to contour properly so you
can alter your face shape and features, I'm so eager to learn I
actually volunteer to be her model at the front of the class.
"Contouring is the art of highlighting and shading," says Prior.
"Anything that is lighter than the skin tone will make an area more
prominent, anything darker will make that area recede." Here's how you
can easily alter your face:
If you have a round face and want to make it look more oval: Apply a
bronzer a shade or two darker than your skin tone in a "3" shape
alongside your face: on your temples, the hollow of your cheeks, and
your chin. If you have a prominent forehead: Shade around the outer
edge of your forehead along your hairline to minimize the area with
bronzer. If you have a flat or wide nose: Shade alongside your bridge
starting from your inner brows. Then highlight right on the center of
your nose.
If gravity is taking a toll and your cheeks are sagging: Apply a
highlighter just above your cheekbone all the way to your temple. Use a
blush directly on the cheekbone, then use a bronzer in the hollow of
the cheek, underneath your bone.
And if you really want to make your contouring stand out, use a
sparkly highlighter, which will reflect the most light. Then for your
bronzer, go for a matte finish, which will absorb light and create a
stark contrast.
Lesson No. 5:
Make your eyes pop by changing their shape
Just like how I learned to use highlights and shadows to contour my
face, I found out that I can use the same info to alter my eye shape,
too. Whether you have drooping lids, narrow-set eyes, or they're simply
too small, you can use your knowledge of light and shadow to change
them.
If you want to add definition: Sweep a light bronzer through the
crease of the eye, which is halfway between the lashline and the
eyebrow. "As you age, the eye area loses elasticity, and things aren't
as shapely as they used to be," says Prior. "This technique is great
for mature skin, to give the face more definition." A tip for you
blue-eyed girls: An orange-y bronzer in your crease will make your
eyes even bluer.
If you have narrow-set eyes: To elongate your eye width, apply a
black liner to the outer half of both your upper and lower lashlines,
connecting at the outer corner.
If you have drooping, heavy lids: Use what you just learned about
highlights and shadows to lift your eye. Apply highlighter above your
crease, from the inner to outer lid. Then blend a shadow to the area
that you want to push back, which would be the heavy fold. Make sure
to blend the edges from the shadow to the highlight.
If you have small eyes: Apply a beige-colored eyeliner to your
lower inner rim, which will help make eyes look more open. Then use a
black pencil liner along your entire upper and lower lashlines,
connecting the lines at the outer corner. The key is to blend the
liner with shadow, going outwards. Wherever you place the darkness is
where your eye will go, so by smudging the lines, it gives the
allusion that your eyes are taking up more real estate on your face.
And the tip I love most for natural definition: Apply a black pencil to your
upper
inner rim. "It lengthens the eye and it also sharpens the appearance of
the eye, giving more fullness to the natural lashline without seeing
the hard edge of a liner," says Prior.
Lesson No. 6:
Think opposites when it comes to color
Remember how I learned that opposite colors on top of each other
cancel each other out? OK, well today I learned if you place them side
by side, they help each other stand out. Simple, but super important
when you're trying to pick the most flattering eyeshadow colors.
Here's a cheat sheet:
For blue eyes: Since orange is the opposite color of blue, anything
with orange in it will make blue eyes stand out more. "It doesn't
have to be a blazing sun color — it just has to have orangey
undertones like gold, apricot, or peach," says Prior.
For green eyes: Red is the opposite color of green, which isn't to
say you should apply a cherry red-colored eyeshadow to your lids. But
you'll help your green eyes pop if you use colors that have red
undertones, like deep plums and wine.
For brown eyes: Brown is a neutral color, so any color will work
well, says Prior. "But the most standout colors are blue and purple."