All Techniques: Photography Solution

Wednesday, October 14, 2015

How to use Shutter speed in DSLR Camera

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<u><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Using Shutter Speed in DSLR Camera</span></span></u></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Shutter speed:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;">In <a href="https://www.blogger.com/null" title="Photography">photography</a>, <b>shutter speed</b> or <b>exposure time</b> is the length of time when the film or digital sensor inside the camera is exposed to light, also when a <a href="https://www.blogger.com/null" title="Camera">camera</a>'s <a href="https://www.blogger.com/null" title="Shutter (photography)">shutter</a> is open when taking a photograph.<sup class="reference" id="cite_ref-ray_1-0"><span></span><span></span></sup>The amount of light that reaches the <a href="https://www.blogger.com/null" title="Photographic film">film</a> or <a href="https://www.blogger.com/null" title="Image sensor">image sensor</a> is proportional to the exposure time. 1/500th of a second will let twice as little in as 1/250th.</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><em><strong>Shutter priority allows the photographer to choose a shutter speed</strong></em>, then the digital SLR camera automatically sets the aperture to suit. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimLiic-vxTttylxlEr0KJolIsAWFWaJF-j4mAgjDFxOo6jIfH3v4ANpCrTOTO0SP5fE6CIPQVKlHVqJdNYo6mv-Ndc7OBcvqlW4Ytp0VE3PrxXigHMfAOw3MY2NZclkInr451WRozsidLY/s1600/shutter+speed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimLiic-vxTttylxlEr0KJolIsAWFWaJF-j4mAgjDFxOo6jIfH3v4ANpCrTOTO0SP5fE6CIPQVKlHVqJdNYo6mv-Ndc7OBcvqlW4Ytp0VE3PrxXigHMfAOw3MY2NZclkInr451WRozsidLY/s1600/shutter+speed.jpg" /></a><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">To set your digital SLR camera on shutter priority, turn 
your mode dial to TV like the image on the left. In case your wondering,
 TV stands for time value. Now rotate the main dial until you have the 
shutter speed your after. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Shutter speed is measured in seconds and looks like 1/500, 
1/250, 1/2 or 1 as in one second etc. It can range anywhere from 1/8000 
to B for bulb. Bulb keeps the shutter open for as long as the shutter 
button is pressed down. </span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">How shutter speed to use:</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">The shutter speed you will need to use depends on the type of photograph
 you want to take. For example, if you want to take a photograph of 
water frozen in action with every little bead in focus, then you would 
choose a fast shutter speed like 1/500 of a second. If you want to blur 
running water like the example below, then you would need to use a 
slower shutter speed like 1/4 of a second. Often when you use a slow 
shutter speed, you will also need a tripod to help avoid camera shake.</span> </span></span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxEd32VcOkZJBPy7XdifHVDfqskvTNOXSdsT8CYR_7PEFRlCawgUA0KZTStLeu_5l4tkGy_vHatpG6KtbQI2CF1FsFRX6ZAVuygyBySKtvqmLdBAqH0OQuqPuaeO4VqvzfCR_YI8ku4kl7/s1600/water+splash.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxEd32VcOkZJBPy7XdifHVDfqskvTNOXSdsT8CYR_7PEFRlCawgUA0KZTStLeu_5l4tkGy_vHatpG6KtbQI2CF1FsFRX6ZAVuygyBySKtvqmLdBAqH0OQuqPuaeO4VqvzfCR_YI8ku4kl7/s1600/water+splash.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">The photograph of blurred water shown above was taken with a shutter 
speed of 0.25 sec (1/4). At this speed I was lucky enough to hand hold 
the digital camera steady to avoid having to use a tripod. </span><br />
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          </span><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Now in contrast, here is a photograph of water taken with a faster shutter speed of 1/60 sec so every bead of water can be seen.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpgIhH-9UF9ai4EwQGcij0hijccGmXGCPh2OCVVerMpw1-wo-FjeuSUy-GHRPLiJX9BleuSb4XIUDBc0yi8HFXCAY4A9KAVu90VgpknUsk1QZSoYIj-wJxp1lEiTJnLfxJtwAQRI8GXdY4/s1600/fast.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpgIhH-9UF9ai4EwQGcij0hijccGmXGCPh2OCVVerMpw1-wo-FjeuSUy-GHRPLiJX9BleuSb4XIUDBc0yi8HFXCAY4A9KAVu90VgpknUsk1QZSoYIj-wJxp1lEiTJnLfxJtwAQRI8GXdY4/s1600/fast.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"></span></span></span><strong>Short tips for using shutter speed in digital SLR photography</strong></div>
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<li><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Slow shutter speed, slows motion. </span>
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<li><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Fast shutter speed, takes the image almost instantly as in frozen in time.</span>
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<li><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Use slow shutter speeds of at least 10 seconds or more for night shots of cities, buildings and streets etc. </span>
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<li><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">When using a slow shutter speed it's also a good idea to use a tripod and remote shutter release to avoid camera shake.</span>
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<li><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">If for any reason you don't want to use a tripod, then a
 general rule to avoid camera shake is to never set your shutter speed 
slower than the reciprocal of the focal length value. For example, if 
your lens focal length is set at 50mm then don't use a shutter speed any
 slower than 1/60th of a second and so forth. </span>
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<li><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">To photograph a running child or animal while blurring 
the background, set the shutter speed to between 1/40 sec and 1/125 sec.
 Then follow the running child or moving animal as you press the shutter
 button. This is often referred to as panning. </span></li>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Similar to <a href="http://everytechnique.blogspot.com/2015/10/aperture-priority-in-dslr-camera.html">Aperture Priority</a>,
 shutter speed also requires you to experiment so you can fully 
understand this mode of photography. Find some running water and try 
both fast and slow shutter speeds so you can see the results for 
yourself. Over time, setting the correct speed for any specific 
circumstance will become second nature.  </span><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"> </span></span></div>
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How to use Shutter speed in DSLR Camera

Using Shutter Speed in DSLR Camera Shutter speed: In photography , shutter speed or exposure time is the length of time when the...

Friday, October 09, 2015

How to take photo of jumping people

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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Take Photo of Jumping People with DSLR</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKVWsuSudBH8nqdpVeSVeIdYG_-k9ExsyWX_shkSTHjurohCiYpQwje6uOiAtm0skxAU9fS1KOG6mgr6HQC0UpuFJz2A1skjvCclucTvT_eMylj4vbWic1hvIZ6TB3OrD-3XKrIQG3s1gT/s1600/232462.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="237" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKVWsuSudBH8nqdpVeSVeIdYG_-k9ExsyWX_shkSTHjurohCiYpQwje6uOiAtm0skxAU9fS1KOG6mgr6HQC0UpuFJz2A1skjvCclucTvT_eMylj4vbWic1hvIZ6TB3OrD-3XKrIQG3s1gT/s320/232462.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://www.christianstogether.net/" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Image by http://www.christianstogether.net</span></span></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;"> </span> </span></span></div>
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Here is an example image shown below that I photographed a couple of 
months back of a friend jumping on a local beach. The only editing I’ve 
done is to crop the image for internet viewing. It really was this sharp
 straight out of the camera. Several were so sharp they almost looked 
superimposed.</div>
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<strong>Camera settings for one person jumps</strong><br />
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When photographing one person jumping, I always set my DSLR camera to
 shutter priority. This allows me to concentrate on the speed of the 
shot and the camera adjusts other settings to suit. The shutter speed is
 the most important setting for capturing the person nice and sharp. I 
find a speed of 1/400th of a second works every time.<br />
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<strong>Camera settings for groups of people jumping </strong><br />
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When photographing two or more people jumping, I use aperture 
priority, yet still keep my attention on the shutter speed. Why aperture
 priority? There is no use photographing a group of jumpers if only one 
person is sharply focused.<br />
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<strong>Here is my technique for groups</strong><br />
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Set your camera to aperture priority and choose an aperture of f/5.6.
 Before the group starts jumping, press your shutter button half way 
down while looking through the viewfinder and you’ll notice camera 
settings listed along the edges of the screen light up. Take note 
especially of the shutter speed. If the shutter speed is 1/400th of a 
second or faster then you are ready to shoot. If not, up your ISO to a 
higher number. Personally I increase my ISO by 100 at a time and try 
again, adjusting from there until the shutter speed is showing as 
1/400th of a second minimum.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE72npspWZVBBvSADAW11sAqByzM7BHiY221b6_37XhuVozxcM8p8TXu4iRgRHlaPWVFrRRxG2Xzoqgfcjj7WRzJTIamv0w9JqBtii2IKzEY5SoWA75xfrnhFvis95el0l8XIVb8vsZC-G/s1600/dslr3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="215" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE72npspWZVBBvSADAW11sAqByzM7BHiY221b6_37XhuVozxcM8p8TXu4iRgRHlaPWVFrRRxG2Xzoqgfcjj7WRzJTIamv0w9JqBtii2IKzEY5SoWA75xfrnhFvis95el0l8XIVb8vsZC-G/s320/dslr3.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<strong>Auto Focus</strong><br />
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Keep the focal switch on the side of your lens on AF. Obviously you won’t have time to manually focus.<br />
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<strong>Focal Points</strong><br />
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Personally I like to set a middle single focal point. This set up 
will ensure you can easily find the focal point and focus on the person 
as they start their jump.<br />
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<strong>Continuous Shooting </strong><br />
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I set my camera to continuous shooting, also called burst mode on 
some DSLR cameras.  Continuous shooting will allow you to take several 
shots or more per second. Your camera will keep shooting, as long as 
your finger holds down the shutter button. Note, cameras do limit how 
many you can take in any one burst until it needs to clear its cache. So
 if you hold your finger down on the shutter and it suddenly stops 
shooting, this is perfectly normal. That is your camera telling you it 
needs to catch up!<br />
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<strong>Pre-focusing</strong><br />
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If the person is jumping up and down in the same spot, what you can 
do is pre-focus before they leap. It’s important that they don’t change 
their distance from you when they jump. i.e don’t jump forward or back. 
For these types of shots, I sometimes press my shutter button half way 
down to pre-focus, then ask them to jump as I press the rest of the 
shutter and take several burst shots.<br />
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<strong>Should you move the camera up and down with the jumper?</strong><br />
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Until you perfect the technique it’s best to keep your camera steady 
in one place. Therefore don’t zoom in too far that you cut the persons 
head off when they are at the top of their jump. Once you have perfected
 these camera settings and technique, you can then try panning up and 
down with the person to show motion in the background. <br />
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<br /></div>
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How to take photo of jumping people

Take Photo of Jumping People with DSLR Image by http://www.christianstogether.net Here is an example image shown below that I...

Friday, October 09, 2015

Aperture Priority in DSLR Camera

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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">How to Use Aperture Priority in DSLR Camera</span></span></div>
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For photographers who use SLR cameras, <b>AV</b> or <b>A</b> (AV for Canon or A for Nikon) mode determines whether all the photograph is in focus or part of. For 
example photographers can choose to have a sharp foreground and 
background, or they can blur the background.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Aperture is indicated by a <i>f</i>-number value.</span></b></div>
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The higher the <b>F</b> number, the more of the photo that 
will be in focus.<br />
For instance if you're taking a photograph of a 
landscape, chances<br />
are you will want all of the foreground and 
background to be sharp<br />
and in focus. For this to happen you will need to
 set your digital<br />
camera <b>f </b>value or aperture as its known, to a large number,<br />
for example  <b>F/11</b>.
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On the other hand if you're taking a photograph of a bird 
and you<br />
want the animal in focus but not the background, then you would<br />
choose a small <b>F</b> number like <b>F/4</b>.<br />
<b>You can see what aperture your digital SLR camera is set at </b><br />
<b>by looking at the back LCD screen for a F number.</b>
 
          As you can<br />
see by the image above right, the aperture in that 
example is set at<br />
F4.0. The display shown on your LCD may look different
 to this<br />
example, depending on the make and model of your camera. <br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">How to set your camera to aperture priority? </span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">  </span></b></div>
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<b>The letters AV (for Canon camera's) or A (for Nikon camera's)
 on your mode dial sets your digital SLR camera to aperture priority. </b><br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
Your camera then changes all other settings such as <a href="http://www.slrphotographyguide.com/camera/settings/shutter-speed.shtml">shutter speed</a> automatically to suit. 
          </div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Once you have <b>AV</b> mode turned on, you can  change the f-number by</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
rotating the main dial above the shutter button. <b>Note:</b> this is for Canon </div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
digital cameras. You may need to refer to your manual to find out how </div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
to change the <b>F</b> stop for your specific brand of camera. </div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
When the <b>f</b> number is small, the lens 
diaphragm is actually wide open. </div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
So if someone says to you that you need
 to open your lens more, </div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
they mean to lower the aperture or <b>F</b>
 number. Alternatively, if the </div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
aperture is a large number, say F22 then 
the lens diaphragm is smaller </div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
or more closed. This often causes much 
confusion with beginners.
          </div>
<ul>
<li>Opening your lens more refers to lowering the <b>f</b> number.</li>
<li>Closing your lens more refers to a higher<b> f</b> number.</li>
</ul>
<b>The best way to understand how aperture works is to take 
numerous photographs with different f-number values and see what the 
difference is.</b><br />
<br />
Take images at both ends of the scale. One with as low a F
 number as possible and one with as high a F number as possible. More 
importantly, when you view them on your computer take notice of how much
 of the photo is in focus.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Photography Assignment - Grab your DSLR camera and give this a try</b></span></div>
Understanding how each mode works separately, is vitally important before trying <b>M</b> (manual mode). Learn how to use aperture priority and how different <b>F</b> numbers effect the overall image. Then and only then, will you fully understand how to use it when shooting in manual (<b>M</b>) mode.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
<b><span style="font-size: small;">Assignment: Lesson in aperture priority mode </span></b></div>
<ol>
<li>Set your digital SLR camera to aperture priority mode. For Canon users, this means turning your mode dial to <b>AV</b>. Nikon users need to change the dial to the letter<b> A</b>. If you don't see the letters <b>AV</b> or <b>A</b>, then refer to your camera manual. <br />
                        <br />
                    </li>
<li>Change your camera's aperture <b>F</b>
 stop to the lowest number possible for your lens. It's important to 
note that each lens will be able to shoot at different apertures. 
Expensive lenses can go as low as <b>F1</b>, where most on average will be able to shoot at around <b>F4</b>. <br />
                        <br />
                    </li>
<li>Go outside and photograph a close object where 
the background elements are far away in distance. This is extreme to 
ensure you easily see the visual differences as you change the <b>F</b> number. On a low <b>F</b> number, you should notice the background is very blurred, when compared to the main object that is in focus. <br />
                        <br />
                    </li>
<li>Now change the aperture number to around <b>F7.1</b> and take the shot again. <br />
                        <br />
                    </li>
<li>Take two more photographs, firstly with  an aperture of  <b>F11</b>, and then <b>F22</b>. <br />
                        <br />
                    </li>
<li>Download and open all 4 photographs on your 
computer and see the difference that can be seen in the background. 
Notice the lower the <b>F</b> number, the more blurred the background. The higher the <b>F</b> number, the more of the background that is seen in focus. </li>
</ol>
</div>

Aperture Priority in DSLR Camera

How to Use Aperture Priority in DSLR Camera For photographers who use SLR cameras, AV or A (AV for Canon or A for Nikon) mode determi...

Wednesday, September 30, 2015

ISO SETTING AND USE IN DSLR CAMERA

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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><u>How To Use ISO In DSLR Camera</u></span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
The ISO on your digital SLR camera refers to film speed. Even though your 
camera is most likely not film at all, but rather digital, the ISO 
camera setting still has the same function as older film cameras. ISO 
determines how sensitive the image sensor is to light</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<u><span style="font-size: large;">Common ISO settings:</span></u></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>The most common ISO camera speed settings are: 100, 200, 400 and 800.</i></b>
 Depending on your digital camera model you may also have them in the 
range of 64, 100, 160, 200, 400, 640, 800, 1600 and higher.</span>
          </div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;">You can see what the ISO setting is by looking at the rear 
LCD screen or top menu depending your model. The example image on the 
left is similar to most SLR digital cameras. If you can't see this in 
your specific model, refer to your manual. As you can see by the example
 on the right, the ISO in this case is set at 100.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;">The lower the ISO number, the slower the speed. The higher the ISO number, for example 1600 the faster the speed.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<u><span style="font-size: large;">Rules for using ISO:</span></u></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li><span style="font-size: small;">Use an ISO of 100 or 200 when taking photographs outside in sunny conditions.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;"> If the sky is overcast or it is evening time, then use an ISO within the range of 400 to 800.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;"> Night time or in cases of low light you might need to 
set your digital camera ISO to 1600 if photographing moving subjects 
like people or if you are hand holding the camea. The result may be a 
grainy / noisy image, however it is possible clean that up in post 
processing.</span></li>
</ul>
<span style="font-size: small;">
Another alternative is to put your camera on a tripod and use a much 
lower ISO with a longer exposure. This is the recommended method for 
landscape night shots. </span><br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
<u><span style="font-size: large;">ISO speed affect the photograph:</span></u></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;">If you set your digital camera to a low  ISO, for example 100,  the 
resulting photograph will be better quality than one set at 1600. The 
higher the ISO the more grainy the photo will look. Therefore go for a 
low ISO number whenever possible.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;">However there are circumstances where a lower quality 
photograph is better than none at all. For example taking photographs of
 fish in a dark aquarium would normally be out of range for most point 
and shoot cameras. As you can see by the image below, setting my DSLR 
camera to a high 1600 ISO made this task possible. Otherwise there would
 not have been enough light let in to the sensor and the image would 
have turned out totally black. </span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Of course I could have chosen a lower ISO camera setting and used the in
 built flash. However this would have resulted in unwanted flash glare 
bouncing off the glass. With this in mind a higher ISO (say 800) is also
 recommended if you want to take photographs of people inside in the 
evening without using a flash.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<u><span style="font-size: large;">How to change ISO setting:</span></u></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;">To change the ISO setting on your digital SLR camera, press the ISO 
button then use the 'up down left and right buttons' to change the 
speed. Again, if you don't have this option refer to your cameras manual
 as it may be slightly different between brands and models.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><b>Note: </b>When your digital SLR camera is in automatic 
mode, the ISO speed is chosen for you to suit the level of light 
available at that particular time. </span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<u><span style="font-size: large;">Program mode:</span></u></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"> </span>A mode I photograph in quite often is called Program AE<b>.</b>
 With Program AE you can choose the ISO you wish to photograph with and 
the digital camera with set the shutter speed and aperture (exposure) 
automatically to suit.  I like to think of it as being similar to an ISO
 priority option. To use Program AE change your mode dial to P, like the
 example image on the right</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
If you're a beginner in using a DSLR camera, you'll find it
 takes some time to get used to setting your ISO correctly. I can't 
count how many times I've kept my ISO at 100 and tried taking a fast 
night shot to find the photo turning out completely black. However after
 six months or so taking photographs in all different situations, you'll
 soon find it becomes second nature. Like anything new, it just takes 
practise. </div>

ISO SETTING AND USE IN DSLR CAMERA

How To Use ISO In DSLR Camera The ISO on your digital SLR camera refers to film speed. Even though your camera is most likely not fil...

Monday, December 01, 2014

Techniques to Reduce Camera Shake

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<div class="post_title" style="text-align: center;">
<b><span style="font-size: x-large;">How to Reduce Camera Shake</span></b></div>
<div class="post_title" style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="post_title" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><em>In this classic DPS post (now updated) photographer Natalie explores 6 ways you can hand hold lenses at low apertures and low shutter speeds and still avoid blurry images caused by <strong>camera shake</strong>.</em></span></span></div>
<div class="post_title" style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<b><span style="font-size: large;">6 Techniques to Reduce Camera Shake:</span></b></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Here are 6 options for avoiding camera shake and achieving crisp, 
delicious images no matter the length of the lens, no matter the shutter
 speed.</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Shooting wide open? NO PROBLEM; I’ve got your back!! Enjoy!</div>
<br />

<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: large;">1. Elbows In</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
As often as possible pull your elbows in to your body and exhale 
completely before depressing the shutter. When you’re working with a 
wide aperture or low shutter speed (or both), even a breath can 
introduce shake. Pulling your elbows tight to your body can really help 
keep you steady. I also press my elbows firmly into my chest for even 
greater stability.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgVobVn3HUniJWkxeF5A2uauIaEy-McnPGBr2fQamMtDfNVGg_R0maTtRmIptZGpkWVh_7hk1tnVAt34JXV50Y8ME8yhY6kwweI4VtwO71M1oEsBQmNlDWZNGXmI3hruIl3fojLHkwz3gp/s1600/1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgVobVn3HUniJWkxeF5A2uauIaEy-McnPGBr2fQamMtDfNVGg_R0maTtRmIptZGpkWVh_7hk1tnVAt34JXV50Y8ME8yhY6kwweI4VtwO71M1oEsBQmNlDWZNGXmI3hruIl3fojLHkwz3gp/s1600/1.jpg" width="220" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: large;">2. Raise Your Left Shoulder….</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
I am definitely a right eyed photographer, but this tip that I learned from “The Moment It Clicks”
 by Joe McNally, requires that I shift for a moment to my left eye. What
 I’m doing here is raising my left shoulder, and bracing my left elbow 
into my rib-cage (no arrow for this one). For further stability, you can
 pull your right elbow in to your chest. As always, exhale completely 
before depressing the shutter to avoid introducing shake.<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtw1yRe8W5gcyAX6si50b3eau2VRrMPyoTSc2k8SZEXQ5z15L8m_IKBPsfTkhBn-LQlhW2mFPaViS8aviA75e0aR3m9U1PjzipHBjtTtpH8x5iROhAT6UoX4l-4Yud1QjHElIsZU6A4R3i/s1600/2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtw1yRe8W5gcyAX6si50b3eau2VRrMPyoTSc2k8SZEXQ5z15L8m_IKBPsfTkhBn-LQlhW2mFPaViS8aviA75e0aR3m9U1PjzipHBjtTtpH8x5iROhAT6UoX4l-4Yud1QjHElIsZU6A4R3i/s1600/2.jpg" width="247" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: large;">3. Create a Tripod With Your Knee</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
You can create your own tripod by resting your elbow on your knee 
while in a seated position. Again, bring that other elbow in for greater
 support.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsDOMM0m90PompvvoHIAo2rgM_JUhPr0XzJwXD3BKgdJu2Um3fy5K5Y5SzvRPPR1iEVLpJhcfUk2K45bgK3k33FJgOeHG-AOGLUsC9yfv2wFcW6hqIvgoGCbKYuMDkvIczUiq6VuS9MXvT/s1600/3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsDOMM0m90PompvvoHIAo2rgM_JUhPr0XzJwXD3BKgdJu2Um3fy5K5Y5SzvRPPR1iEVLpJhcfUk2K45bgK3k33FJgOeHG-AOGLUsC9yfv2wFcW6hqIvgoGCbKYuMDkvIczUiq6VuS9MXvT/s1600/3.jpg" width="249" /></a></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: large;">4. Lay Down</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
These two images illustrate perhaps the most obvious way to avoid 
shake without a tripod. Lie flat and let the lens sit directly on the 
ground. The problem with this is that you’re likely to have quite a 
downward tilt to the lens and unless you’re aiming to photograph the 
pavement, you probably won’t end up with the shot you’re hoping for. In 
the first image you’ll notice that I placed my hand flat against the 
cement and balanced the lens on top of it to give myself some height. In
 the second image you’ll see that I created a fist with my hand to give 
myself even greater height.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG4brYCHdx1go05-QnMZ9VBI-kd4uWGP9wpb-IG3oFACZfqFcTXfAFtN-5VrKgJMk5MqyT_LXBiu8k0N7EFMgn4LLbhHVUMG9_4wYRv8lpd4uppy6MYnLbPISeZfgu5ucKzUxE3b4xlnOE/s1600/4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="229" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG4brYCHdx1go05-QnMZ9VBI-kd4uWGP9wpb-IG3oFACZfqFcTXfAFtN-5VrKgJMk5MqyT_LXBiu8k0N7EFMgn4LLbhHVUMG9_4wYRv8lpd4uppy6MYnLbPISeZfgu5ucKzUxE3b4xlnOE/s1600/4.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: large;">5. The Machine Gun Hold</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
This next technique is sometimes referred to as the machine gun hold.
 I rarely use this technique as I find it awkward and difficult to 
maintain for more than a second or two. Just because it doesn’t work for
 me, doesn’t mean it won’t for you. . . give it a try.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs8bJvtDNwKDk6HHfxdFRBtg8SEtWbujBCGNmhfeh2VBrXElYgVMfmzxlyuqzPTfyRSpUgDOQqGRnIfjEyCXZPdmltE_xXHiVH6286yvI727RvsF3uNA-MgmHEMF1W8dSNmBsUvjUoW2E5/s1600/5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs8bJvtDNwKDk6HHfxdFRBtg8SEtWbujBCGNmhfeh2VBrXElYgVMfmzxlyuqzPTfyRSpUgDOQqGRnIfjEyCXZPdmltE_xXHiVH6286yvI727RvsF3uNA-MgmHEMF1W8dSNmBsUvjUoW2E5/s1600/5.jpg" width="194" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">6. Cradle It</span><br />
<br />

In this next image you’ll see that I created a sort of cradle for the
 lens between my shoulder and my wrist. I also stabilized the hold by 
balancing my elbow on my knee.<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVFraiGe24GERgD1ZJSBRxV9YFisYJUfCqke5gYRv8ZPmvu9a6q47UShWCswcWFgRlPwYqg7GDpsZYI4vxRU_GdBTOt6t577AWbu8r13F2DGq7FnvZrekeI5_QOxbpZikizanFGygwIUyX/s1600/6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVFraiGe24GERgD1ZJSBRxV9YFisYJUfCqke5gYRv8ZPmvu9a6q47UShWCswcWFgRlPwYqg7GDpsZYI4vxRU_GdBTOt6t577AWbu8r13F2DGq7FnvZrekeI5_QOxbpZikizanFGygwIUyX/s1600/6.jpg" width="246" /></a></div>
<br />
Well there you have it. That’s how I avoid “The Shake” (I’ve named him 
that because he’s like an evil monster who comes in and ruins my 
otherwise perfectly delicious images). Please share YOUR tricks and 
techniques in the comment section below, and as always. . .<br />
<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: right;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Source Link : <a href="http://digital-photography-school.com/author/aloha/">Natalie Norton</a></span></div>
<br />
</div>

Techniques to Reduce Camera Shake

How to Reduce Camera Shake In this classic DPS post (now updated) photographer Natalie explores 6 ways you can hand hold lenses at low...

Monday, November 03, 2014

Common Mistakes as New Photographer

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<b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Common Mistakes You Made as New Photographers</span></b></div>
<div class="post_title" style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="post_title" style="text-align: left;">
<b><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">Please keep in mind that all of these common mistakes can also be 
advantages when done well and with purpose. This article is not about 
those times, but is an observation about how often I see them done the 
wrong way. As a photographer, you need to build the right foundation of 
skills before you can successfully veer away from them. </span></span></b></div>
<div class="post_title" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<u><b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Technical Mistakes</span></b></u></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<b><span style="font-size: large;">1. Colors are too strong or unrealistic</span></b></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: small;">Unrealistic and strong colors are often a fantastic creative choice. 
However there is a noticeable difference between when it is done 
purposely due to experience, and when it is done through lack of knowing
 any better or poor color management.</span><span style="font-size: small;">The first thing you need is a good monitor that is color calibrated.
 Without this, you are working on your images blind. I see photographers
 share images that look good to them on their screen, but they look off 
to everyone else. This is because their screen is the problem. How can 
you retouch an image if you can’t see the true colors or tones?</span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;">There is also a common tendency of newer photographers to try to make
 their photographs look like paintings. Once again, this can be done 
well, but the way I usually see it done is where people raise the 
saturation slider way too far. It may make the colors stand out more on a
 monitor and be more noticeable as a thumbnail in Facebook, but it just 
makes the image look fake. In a print, the colors will end up even more 
extreme than they do on a monitor. When you print images with natural 
and subtle colors those colors will look incredible and much stronger 
than you think. This look can sometimes be hard to notice on the 
monitor.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Instead of raising the saturation slider, find images where the 
natural colors in the scene are already strong. Find a subject that is a
 bright color surrounded by muted tones. Shoot at the golden hour to let
 the colors naturally gain strength. Instead of raising the saturation 
slider if you want the image to feel like a painting, overlay a specific color onto the image.
 Or try creating a moody image with subtle and natural color, print it 
out, put it on your wall, and shine some light on it and you will see 
how powerful that subtle color can be. That can feel like a painting 
too. </span></div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<b><span style="font-size: large;">2. Shots are not sharp enough</span></b></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
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<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: small;">Intensional blur can be gorgeous, but to be a good photographer you 
need to have control of your sharpness. If you are doing a portrait, the
 focus point should be on the eyes. The eyes need to be the sharpest 
part of your image, not the nose or the ear. Also, pay attention to back
 focus in certain situations. This is where the camera’s focus will miss
 what you are aiming at and instead focus on the background behind it.</span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;">To achieve sharpness and reduce handheld camera shake, your shutter speed needs to be at least one over your focal length.
 So if you are on a full frame camera with a 50mm lens, the shutter 
speed would need to be at least 1/50th of a second (and probably a 
little faster to be safe). On an APS-C sensor a 50mm would be the 
equivalent of around an 80mm lens and on a micro-4/3rds camera it would 
be the equivalent of a 100mm lens, needing 1/100th of a second shutter 
speed. If you are freezing motion you need an even faster shutter speed.
 For people moving at average speeds, I prefer 1/320th of a second.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"> </span>Think about raising your ISO
 sometimes to get sharper shots, particularly in darker lighting 
situations, but also sometimes during the day. A higher ISO will allow 
you to use a faster shutter speed and a smaller aperture, such as f/16, 
to ensure that your entire image will be in focus.<span style="font-size: small;"> </span></div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<b><span style="font-size: large;">3. The composition is off</span></b></div>
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<br /></div>
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If you are Garry Winogrand then you can skew your images purposely 
for that energetic effect. However, I notice many photographers struggle
 to get their images straight. Look through the viewfinder and find a 
frame of reference to straighten your image. Maybe it’s a lamp post or a
 sidewalk or a tree. Pay attention to when the camera might be slightly 
lower on the left or right side. Often it will be the same side 
consistently for you and it’s just a tendency that has to be unlearned. 
Some people don’t even notice that their images are very slightly skewed
 when editing. Noticing and fixing the slight skew (crooked) can make a huge difference.</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
The other thing I notice is that a lot of photographers don’t pay 
attention to their edges. Put things in the edges of your frames when 
possible to keep a viewer’s eyes from moving off the print. This could 
be a tree branch, a fire escape, a building, anything. Cut off a part of
 an element and place it in the corner to help keep the eyes in the 
frame. Look at the right edge of the image above. It makes a big 
difference.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Sometimes compositions can be too simple. Simple can be good but not 
always. Take a step back and see if you can include more in the frame. 
Create more complex composition with more elements. That can make for 
very fun and engrossing images.</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Also, a surprising number of people overly rely on either vertical or
 horizontal shooting. It’s good to have a preference, but when I see it 
in beginners it seems more like they are just uncomfortable shooting the
 opposite way. It’s not like they are shooting two verticals for every 
one horizontal, some are shooting six or more verticals for every 
horizontal, or vice versa. It’s not on purpose as they default 
automatically into that way of shooting no matter the situation.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Most importantly, I find that people will see something interesting, 
stop immediately when they notice it, click a few shots, and move on. 
It’s almost like a robotic move. Stop yourself when you see something 
interesting and take a few seconds to actively think about the best way 
to capture it. Horizontal or vertical? What is the best focal length and
 where can I move to get the best viewpoint? Are there other elements that I can include in the frame? How is the lighting? </div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<b><span style="font-size: large;">4. Not close enough</span></b></div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Robert Capa once said it all, “<em>If your photos aren’t good enough, you’re not close enough.</em>”
 Don’t hover from far away like a sniper. Get in there close, and get in
 there with a wider angle lens. This can work for portraits, landscapes,
 or any type of photography. Sometimes it is best to get closer and 
capture what is most important, large in the frame.</div>
<br />

<div style="text-align: left;">
<b><span style="font-size: large;">5. Contrast, exposure, black and white levels are off</span></b></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
The overall tones in your image are vital and you need to get good at
 working with the contrast, exposure, black levels, and highlights. 
Always try to get the exposure as close to perfect as you can in the 
camera. I know you can fix it later and often you can do it well, but 
it’s just not the same as getting it right in the camera. Also think 
about whether your images might be too dark or too light.</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Getting the contrast correct is tough. Be very careful about 
overdoing contrast as this is a very common mistake. You also don’t want
 to add the same amount of contrast to every image because the amount of
 contrast needed depends on the lighting that was in the scene. I notice
 both tendencies from photographers who use too little contrast or too 
much contrast. Sometimes this is the monitor’s fault but other time it 
is the photographer’s.</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Having blacks and whites in your image are good things.
 Often you want some detail in the shadows or highlights but you want 
areas of white to draw the eyes in and areas of black to ground the 
image.</div>
<br />

<div style="text-align: left;">
<b><span style="font-size: large;">6. Heavy-handed HDR</span></b></div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;">I’m not against HDR. I swear I’m not. I just see it overdone so much 
that it makes me want to cry. HDR can be done subtly, and it can look 
amazing when done right.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
However, what I often see is HDR done to such extreme that the colors
 look far from real. It doesn’t even look fake, it just looks bad. There
 are absolutely no shadows or blacks, and no highlights or whites. I’ve 
seen entire images that are all middle tones!</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
You can take some detail out of the shadows and bring in the 
whites somewhat to get a better dynamic range. Try to find that fine 
line between realism and looking as good as possible. Retouching is 
about finding that fine line where an image works and not going over or under it.</div>
<br />

<div style="text-align: center;">
<u><b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Conceptual Mistakes</span></b></u></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>7. No subject</b></span><b><span style="font-size: x-large;"> </span></b></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<b><span style="font-size: x-large;"> </span></b></div>
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<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Photographing beauty, light, and color is so important, but sometimes 
your images need some substance to them as well. Great photography is 
the merging of both form and content. If you can mix a beautiful image 
with an interesting subject matter, you have hit photographic gold. 
Think about subjects, ideas, or emotions that are portrayed within an 
image. Figure out what that substance is that appeals to you and develop
 it. Think about what your voice is and develop it.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"> <b><br /></b></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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</div>
</span><span style="font-size: small;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
</span><span style="font-size: large;"><b>8. Photographs are not consistent enough</b></span><br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
You can photograph many different subjects and you should try 
different styles, but organize these subjects and styles into cohesive 
groups. Try to give these groups a consistent look with an overall feel 
and related content. Consistency is developed with experience, so the 
more you photograph, the more you will start to think about it. Pay 
attention to the flow of one image into the other.</div>
<br />

<div style="text-align: left;">
<b><span style="font-size: large;">9. Too many travel photos and not enough close to home</span></b></div>
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<a href="http://goo.gl/gAEK4t" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://goo.gl/gAEK4t" width="266" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">So many people say to me that they only photograph when they travel. I
 don’t care where you live, or how busy you are, it’s so important to photograph where you live.</span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;">If you don’t want to lug your camera around then use a phone camera. 
Phone cameras are pretty good. Schedule some time every week, even if 
it’s only 20 minutes or during a lunch break, to photograph somewhere, 
anywhere. Photograph in the parking lot, on the corner, at the market. I
 promise you that there will be interesting subject matter there if you 
look. But you have to go out and take the time to look.</span></div>
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><div style="text-align: left;">
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">10. Too many photos</span></span></b></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;">It’s fine to take a lot of photos. It’s fine to show a photograph a day if you shoot a lot, but edit your work down to the best.
 Nobody has the time to wade through a million photographs to find the 
gems. They will miss the gems if they have to look through too many 
mediocre images.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;">We all take mediocre images but the best photographers do the best 
job at hiding those images.  Do your viewers a favor and pick out the 
gems for them and only show those. You want people to want more rather 
than wanting less, because if they want less then they’re probably not 
coming back.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Do you have any other mistakes you think should be added to this list? What are you guilty of,  and willing to admit it?</span></div>
</div>

Common Mistakes as New Photographer

Common Mistakes You Made as New Photographers Please keep in mind that all of these common mistakes can also be advantages when done ...

Thursday, October 16, 2014

Family Portraits Dos and Don’ts

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<h1 class="post_title" style="text-align: center;">
Family Portraits Dos and Don’ts</h1>
<h1 class="post_title" style="text-align: center;">
 </h1>
<h1 class="post_title" style="text-align: center;">
          
          </h1>
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<img alt="family-portraits.jpg" height="270" src="http://digital-photography-school.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/family-portraits1.jpg" width="600" /></div>
<br />For a photographer, skills in family portraits are are essential and 
are usually the bread and butter for up and coming photographers. 
Looking at the history of photography, one of the first popular uses the
 camera was not for abstract art, or photographing the family pet, but 
for photographing people and their families. Because of the expense and 
difficulty of each photo taken, they became masters at getting things 
right the first time and being able to fit in as many people as possible
 into the frame. In order to hone in on the small things that make a 
difference in this classic and often overlooked form of photography, I 
have come up with my five DOs and five DONT’s of Family Portraits. I’ve 
also included a few examples from portrait sessions we have done.<br />
<br /><h2>
Family Portraits DOs</h2>
<br /><h3>
1) Do squish your groups together</h3>
<br />Most likely, even though they are family they won’t be getting close 
enough. Maybe it’s an American personal space thing, but it’s always 
been an issue for me and having everyone in tight truly makes a 
difference in the tone of the picture. When families are physically 
close, it emits a warmth and visually shows what families should be 
like…close. Even if you are photographing the Adam’s family, when you 
get everyone rubbing shoulders they look like a model family and the 
overall composition is more finished than a typical snapshot. As a 
starter, try having people stand at slight angles with shoulders 
overlapping. Also, consider the age of your family. If Grandma is 
present, make sure you have a chair for her. If grandma and grandpa are 
both there, you’ll will need two chairs.<br />
<br /><div style="text-align: center;">
<img alt="family-portraiture.jpg" height="479" src="http://digital-photography-school.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/family-portraiture.jpg" width="600" /></div>
<br /><span id="more-5034"></span><br />
<br /><h3>
2) Do coordinate clothing</h3>
<br />Before you meet with your family you should guide them in a wardrobe 
choice. Ultimately it is up to them and their families style to choose 
what they wear but simply reminding them to possibly overlap in a color 
scheme, avoid extreme colors, prints and logos on their clothing can 
make a big difference. This will give you an easier time post 
production, and you will have both options in color and black and white.
 As I said, it’s their picture and their choice, but a casual 
recommendation from a professional is usually appreciated.<br />

<br /><h3>
3) Do check the screen for blinking</h3>
<br />Shooting and shooting is OK for one or two people, but in a larger 
group it can be hit and miss and you may miss that one photo where 
everyone has their eyes open. I used to think “Hey, its digital. I’ll 
use the rapid fire method and surely I’ll get one right.” After a few 
sessions of transplanting eyes from one photo to another in Photoshop, 
I’ve changed my methods. You can get away with a weak smile but if 
someone looks like they are sleeping or on drugs in their first family 
portrait in 10 years, the customer may not be too happy. With experience
 you learn to quickly scan across everyone’s eyes in an instant.<br />
<br /><h3>
4) Try and be funny to get some genuine smiles</h3>
<br />A few cheesy jokes work surprisingly well to break the tension. A 
typical photographer joke might be saying “Ok, I need everyone to get in
 focus.” Or asking everyone to strike their best glamor pose. Other ways
 to get a smile is to get them doing something they don’t normally do. 
Have them try jumping, running, human pyramids or whatever comes to 
mind. If you have a one-liner you’ve used SUCCESSFULLY, or a creative 
and fun pose, sound off in the comments for the rest of us.<br />
<br /><div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://digital-photography-school.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/family-portraits.jpg"><img alt="family-portraits.jpg" height="399" src="http://digital-photography-school.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/family-portraits-tm.jpg" width="600" /></a></div>
<br /><h3>
5.) Do try and blur the background</h3>
<br />Choose the largest aperture setting you can, while still keeping 
everyone sharp. An aperture of 2.8 might make the trees and shrubbery 
look silky smooth, but it might make Uncle Bob at the end of the line 
look fuzzy. This is especially a problem when everyone is standing on 
different focal planes. The solution is often to shoot a few clicks 
smaller than the lenses widest aperture, then use the preview screen and
 zoom button on your camera to make sure everyone is looking good. Then 
adjust and continue. If you’re really serious about this, I’ve even 
heard of photographers setting out cups length-wise on a picnic table to
 estimate the distances you start to loose focus. Seems extreme to me, 
just don’t forget about Uncle Bob.<br />
<br /><div style="text-align: center;">
<img alt="family-portrait-tiops.jpg" height="401" src="http://digital-photography-school.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/family-portrait-tiops.jpg" width="600" /></div>
<br /><h2>
Family Portraits DON’TS</h2>
<br /><h3>
1.) Don’t forget to check ALL your basic camera settings before clicking away</h3>
<br />ISO (go as low as possible), Image Size (RAW, fine), Exposure 
Compensation, Metering etc. It would be sad to get to the end of a great
 session and realize you didn’t change the low quality settings from the
 last time you used your camera shooting Garbage Pal Kids you planned on
 selling on Ebay. Of course in-door and out-door settings will differ as
 will naturally lit an artificially lit.<br />
<br /><h3>
2.) Don’t let your subjects tilt their heads into each other</h3>
<br />This is fine for your everyday Joe at the family Bar-b-que, but not a
 paid photographer. Subjects tend to think they will fit into the 
picture better if they tilt and lower their heads. Funny thing is, I’ve 
even caught myself doing this when I was being photographed. Watch for 
it and avoid it. There is always the lovey-dovey pose where they 
intentionally lean heads in, but that’s not what I’m talking about.<br />
<br /><h3>
3.) Don’t sound insecure</h3>
<br />Don’t say things like “This isn’t working.” Rephrase it into a 
positive, “Great, lets try a few more positions.” The more you tell them
 the pictures are looking great the better looking the pictures will 
get. Think high fashion cliche’s like, “Love it,” “Your beautiful,” 
“What a great one.” If you act like you have never seen such great 
photos the energy will give you just what your looking for and they will
 show confidence in their smiles.<br />
<br /><div style="text-align: center;">
<img alt="family-portraits-tips.jpg" height="899" src="http://digital-photography-school.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/family-portraits-tips.jpg" width="600" /></div>
<br /><h3>
4/5.) These last two may seem to contradict each other so I want to 
put them together. 4.) Don’t let Mom run the show. 5.) Don’t be afraid 
to let Mom, Dad, and kids come up with ideas and posing.</h3>
<br />First about Mom. We all remember the drill, no running, no jumping, 
no dirt, and pretty much no fun until after the pictures. If you do this
 you can get a treat on the way home. This is probably the best way to 
ruin family picture day for the rest of every 8 year old’s life. Besides
 the fact that it is almost impossible to control what 8 year old’s do, 
it makes for bad portrait sessions. If you are sensing a strong arm from
 Mother, make sure to get the squeaky clean formals done right off the 
bat. They are easy and traditional. After that let mom know that you’ve 
got it covered and now you want to have fun with the kids. Let them be 
kids, let them wrestle and play and capture them at their best. Once in 
awhile you will find families that are more relaxed. They may have seen 
fun family photos of their friends and want do do some in a similar 
fashion. Take their suggestions without letting them think you have none
 of your own and work them in. Often they will turn out great and 
they’ll feel like they had a little more to do with the pictures than 
just a pretty face.<br />
<br /><a class="PIN_1413440566216_pin_it_button_20 PIN_1413440566216_pin_it_button_en_20_gray PIN_1413440566216_pin_it_button_inline_20 PIN_1413440566216_pin_it_beside_20" data-pin-config="beside" data-pin-href="//www.pinterest.com/pin/create/button/?guid=b8MVYv7RGC8D-2&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.digital-photography-school.com%2Ffamily-portraits-dos-and-donts&media=http%3A%2F%2Fdigital-photography-school.com%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2009%2F03%2Ffamily-portraits1.jpg&description=Great%20practical%20advice%20on%20photographing%20families." data-pin-log="button_pinit" href="https://www.blogger.com/null"><span class="PIN_1413440566216_pin_it_button_count" id="PIN_1413440566216_pin_count_1"><br /></span></a>
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<span style="font-size: xx-small;">Source: <a href="http://digital-photography-school.com/author/chaselliot/">Chas Elliott</a></span> </h1>
</div>

Family Portraits Dos and Don’ts

Family Portraits Dos and Don’ts For a photographer, skills in family portraits are are essential and are us...

Thursday, October 16, 2014

Photography: 10 Ways to Take Stunning Portraits

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10 Ways to Take Stunning Portraits</h1>
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<img alt="10 Tips for Taking Stunning Portraits" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-59206" height="600" src="http://digital-photography-school.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/07/stunning-portraits-600x600.jpg" width="600" /></div>
<br />
<b>How do you take Portraits that have the ‘Wow’ factor?</b><br />
<br />
Today and tomorrow  I want to talk about taking Portraits that are <b>a little out of the box</b>. You see it’s all very well and good to have a portrait that <b>follows all the rules</b> – but it hit me as I was surfing on Flickr today that <b>often the most striking portraits are those that break all the rules</b>.<br />
<br />
I want to look at some ways to break out of the mold and take <b>striking portraits</b> by breaking (or at least bending) the rules and adding a little randomness into your <b>portrait photography</b>. I’ll share ten of these tips today and a further ten tomorrow (update: you can see the <a href="http://digital-photography-school.com/blog/tips-portrait-photography/">2nd part here</a>).<br />
<br />
<h3>
1. Alter Your Perspective</h3>
<br />
Most portraits are taken with the camera at (or around) the eye level
 of the subject. While this is good common sense – completely changing 
the angle that you shoot from can give your portrait a real WOW factor.<br />
<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://flickr.com/photos/striatic/241843728/"><img alt="10 Ways to Take Stunning Portraits" height="600" src="http://digital-photography-school.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/07/portrait-high-perspective.jpg" width="600" /></a> </div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Photo by <a href="http://flickr.com/photos/striatic/241843728/">striatic</a></div>
<span id="more-1874"></span><br />
<br />
Get up high and shoot down on your subject or get as close to the 
ground as you can and shoot up. Either way you’ll be seeing your subject
 from an angle that is bound to create interest.<br />
<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://flickr.com/photos/trishabrunner/1943335705"><img alt="10 Ways to Take Stunning Portraits" height="437" src="http://digital-photography-school.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/07/portrait-low-perspective.jpg" width="600" /></a> </div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Photo by <a href="http://flickr.com/photos/trishabrunner/1943335705">TeeRish</a></div>
<h3>
2. Play with Eye Contact</h3>
<br />
It is amazing how much the direction of your subject’s eyes can 
impact an image. Most portraits have the subject looking down the lens –
 something that can create a real sense of connection between a subject 
and those viewing the image. But there are a couple of other things to 
try:<br />
<br />
<b>A. Looking off camera – <span style="font-weight: normal;">have
 your subject focus their attention on something unseen and outside the 
field of view of your camera. This can create a feeling of candidness 
and also create a little intrigue and interest as the viewer of the shot
 wonders what they are looking at. This intrigue is particularly drawn 
about when the subject is showing some kind of emotion (ie ‘what’s 
making them laugh?’ or ‘what is making them look surprised?’). Just be 
aware that when you have a subject looking out of frame that you can 
also draw the eye of the viewer of the shot to the edge of the image 
also – taking them away from the point of interest in your shot – the 
subject.</span></b><br />
<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://flickr.com/photos/monicasemergiu/234796471/in/set-72157594435810788/"><img alt="10 Ways to Take Stunning Portraits" height="505" src="http://digital-photography-school.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/07/portrait-off-camera.jpg" width="600" /></a> </div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Photo by <a href="http://flickr.com/photos/monicasemergiu/234796471/in/set-72157594435810788/">monicutza80</a></div>
<b><span style="font-weight: normal;"><b>B. Looking within the frame</b>
 – alternatively you could have your subject looking at something (or 
someone) within the frame. A child looking at a ball, a woman looking at
 her new baby, a man looking hungrily at a big plate of pasta…. When you
 give your subject something to look at that is inside the frame you 
create a second point of interest and a relationship between it and your
 primary subject. It also helps create ‘story’ within the image.</span></b><br />
<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://flickr.com/photos/paulbence/2607145774/"><img alt="10 Ways to Take Stunning Portraits" height="577" src="http://digital-photography-school.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/07/portrait-eyes.jpg" width="600" /></a> </div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Photo by <a href="http://flickr.com/photos/paulbence/2607145774/">paulbence</a></div>
<h3>
3. Break the Rules of Composition</h3>
<br />
There are a lot of ‘rules’ out there when it comes to composition and
 I’ve always had a love hate relationship with them. My theory is that 
while they are useful to know and employ that they are also useful to 
know so you can purposely break them – as this can lead to eye catching 
results.<br />
<br />
The <a href="http://digital-photography-school.com/blog/rule-of-thirds/">Rule of Thirds</a>
 is one that can be effective to break – placing your subject either 
dead centre can sometimes create a powerful image – or even creative 
placement with your subject right on the edge of a shot can sometimes 
create interesting images.<br />
<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://flickr.com/photos/zanotti/324894615/"><img alt="10 Ways to Take Stunning Portraits" height="400" src="http://digital-photography-school.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/07/portrait-composition.jpg" width="600" /></a></div>
Photo by <a href="http://flickr.com/photos/zanotti/324894615/">reportergimmiÃ¢â€žÂ¢</a>

<br />
Another ‘rule’ that we often talk about in portrait photography is to <a href="http://digital-photography-school.com/blog/give-your-subject-space-to-look-into/">give your subject room to look into</a>. This can work really well – but again, sometimes rules are made to be broken.<br />
<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://flickr.com/photos/bukutgirl/135855897/in/set-72157600004824323/"><img alt="10 Ways to Take Stunning Portraits" height="444" src="http://digital-photography-school.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/07/portrait-composition-rules.jpg" width="600" /></a></div>
Photo by <a href="http://flickr.com/photos/bukutgirl/135855897/in/set-72157600004824323/">Bukutgirl</a>

<br />
<h3>
4. Experiment with Lighting</h3>
<br />
Another element of randomness that you can introduce to your 
portraits is the way that you light them. There are almost unlimited 
possibilities when it comes to using light in portraits.<br />
<br />
Side-lighting can create mood, backlighting and silhouetting your subject to hide their features can be powerful.<br />
<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://flickr.com/photos/bukutgirl/127075934/"><img alt="portrait-lighting.jpg" height="744" src="http://digital-photography-school.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/07/portrait-lighting.jpg" width="600" /></a></div>
Photo by <a href="http://flickr.com/photos/bukutgirl/127075934/">Bukutgirl</a>

<br />
Using techniques like <a href="http://digital-photography-school.com/blog/slow-sync-flash/">slow synch flash</a> can create an impressive wow factor.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://flickr.com/photos/22570135@N04/2428216904/"><img alt="Portrait-Slow-Sync-Flash" border="0" height="398" hspace="10" src="http://www.problogger.net/wp-content/uploads/2008/07/portrait-slow-sync-flash.jpg" vspace="10" width="600" /></a> Photo by <a href="http://flickr.com/photos/22570135@N04/2428216904/">diskomethod</a>
</div>
<h3>
5. Move Your Subject Out of their Comfort Zone</h3>
<br />
I was chatting with a photographer recently who told me about a 
corporate portrait shoot that he had done with a business man at his 
home. They’d taken a lot of head and shoulder shots, shots at his desk, 
shots in front of framed degrees and other ‘corporate’ type images. They
 had all turned out fairly standard – but there was nothing that really 
stood out from the crowd.<br />
<br />
The photographer and the subject agreed that there were plenty of 
useable shots but they wanted to create something ‘special’ and out of 
the box. The photographer suggested they try some ‘jumping’ shots. The 
subject was a little hesitant at first but stepped out into the 
uncomfortable zone and dressed in his suit and tie started jumping!<br />
<br />
The shots were amazing, surprising and quite funny. The shoot 
culminated with the subject jumping in his pool for one last image!<br />
<br />
While this might all sound a little ‘silly’ the shots ended up being 
featured in a magazine spread about the subject. It was the series of 
out of the box images that convinced the magazine he was someone that 
they’d want to feature.<br />
<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://flickr.com/photos/trishabrunner/2247534887/"><img alt="portrait-comfort-zone.jpg" height="598" src="http://digital-photography-school.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/07/portrait-comfort-zone.jpg" width="600" /></a></div>
Image by <a href="http://flickr.com/photos/trishabrunner/2247534887/">TeeRish</a>

<br />
<h3>
6. Shoot Candidly</h3>
<br />
Sometimes posed shots can look somewhat…. posed. Some people don’t 
look good in a posed environment and so switching to a candid type 
approach can work.<br />
<br />
Photograph your subject at work, with family or doing something that 
they love. This will put them more at ease and you can end up getting 
some special shots with them reacting naturally to the situation that 
they are in. You might even want to grab a longer zoom lens to take you 
out of their immediate zone and get really paparazzi with them.<br />
<br />
I find that this can particularly work when photographing children.<br />
<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://flickr.com/photos/phitar/152462547/"><img alt="portrait-candid.jpg" height="399" src="http://digital-photography-school.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/07/portrait-candid.jpg" width="600" /></a></div>
Photo by <a href="http://flickr.com/photos/phitar/152462547/">phitar</a>

<br />
<h3>
7. Introduce a Prop</h3>
<br />
Add a prop of some kind into your shots and you create another point of interest that can enhance your shot.<br />
<br />
Yes you might run the risk of taking too much focus away from your 
main subject but you could also really add a sense of story and place to
 the image that takes it in a new direction and gives the person you’re 
photographing an extra layer of depth that they wouldn’t have had 
without the prop.<br />
<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://flickr.com/photos/kmtucker/527180843/"><img alt="portrait-prop.jpg" height="915" src="http://digital-photography-school.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/07/portrait-prop.jpg" width="600" /></a></div>
Photo by <a href="http://flickr.com/photos/kmtucker/527180843/">Mrs. Maze</a>

<br />
<h3>
8. Focus Upon One Body Part – Get Close Up</h3>
<br />
Get a lens with a long focal length attached to your camera – or get 
right in close so that you can just photograph a part of your subject. 
Photographing a person’s hands, eyes, mouth or even just their lower 
body… can leave a lot to the imagination of the viewer of an image.<br />
<br />
Sometimes it’s what is left out of an image that says more than what is included.<br />
<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://flickr.com/photos/bukutgirl/206733063/"><img alt="portrait-close up.jpg" height="413" src="http://digital-photography-school.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/07/portrait-close-up.jpg" width="600" /></a></div>
Photo by <a href="http://flickr.com/photos/bukutgirl/206733063/">Bukutgirl</a>

<br />
<h3>
9. Obscure Part of your Subject</h3>
<br />
A variation on the idea of zooming in on one part of the body is to 
obscure parts of your portrait subject’s face or body. You can do this 
with clothing, objects, their hands or just by framing part of them out 
of the image.<br />
<br />
Doing this means that you leave a little to the imagination of the 
image’s viewer but also focus their attention on parts of your subject 
that you want them to be focused upon.<br />
<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://flickr.com/photos/bigblonde/312435398/"><img alt="portrait-obscure.jpg" height="401" src="http://digital-photography-school.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/07/portrait-obscure.jpg" width="600" /></a></div>
Photo by <a href="http://flickr.com/photos/bigblonde/312435398/">BigBlonde</a>

<br />
<h3>
10. Take a Series of Shots</h3>
<br />
Switch your camera into ‘burst’ or ‘continuous shooting’ mode and fire off more than one shot at a time.<br />
<br />
In doing this you create a series of images that could be presented together instead of just one static image.<br />
<br />
This technique can work very well when you’re photographing children –
 or really any active subject that is changing their position or pose in
 quick succession.<br />
<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://flickr.com/photos/36425193@N00/131246453/"><img alt="portrait-continuous shooting.jpg" height="225" src="http://digital-photography-school.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/07/portrait-continuous-shooting.jpg" width="600" /></a></div>
Image by diyosa

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<span style="font-size: xx-small;">Source: <a href="http://digital-photography-school.com/author/darren/">Darren Rowse</a></span> </h1>
</div>

Photography: 10 Ways to Take Stunning Portraits

10 Ways to Take Stunning Portraits How do you take Portraits that have the ‘Wow’ factor? Today and tomor...

Thursday, October 16, 2014

Photo Shooting Portraits like a Pro On a Budget

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<em>In this post portrait photographer <a href="http://www.photo.net/photos/alexisgodschalk">Alexis Godschalk</a> shares some tips on shooting studio like portraits on a budget by talking us through a shoot he did with a band recently.</em></div>
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<br /><div style="text-align: justify;">
When I started doing photography years ago, I really wanted to 
shoot fantastic shots, I wanted to make sure that my photographs would 
be considered for a gallery showing. All I had was Canon 10D and a 
flash. Most of what I shot was candid and in the style of photo 
journalism and even though this was fine I wanted more.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://digital-photography-school.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/portraits-budget.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="portraits-budget.jpg" border="0" height="320" src="http://digital-photography-school.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/portraits-budget.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<br />What kept me from shooting clean studio like portraits was the <i>mistaken</i> belief that I needed loads of expensive equipment.</div>
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<br />One day a friend of mine approached me about photographing his band. 
He had just gotten new management and wanted to make the band band look 
pro. He started by showing me some photography he liked and we started 
talking about what could and could not be done. One of the shots he like
 was a clean shot with dramatic lighting again a black background. I 
told him that would be tough but I’d try, and so we did.<br />
<br />Not having a studio or lighting I started getting creative and went 
into the garage to see what I had. I had a couple of ladders, string, 
clamps, 8’ pole, a black bed sheet and some tape. I decided to shoot 
outside in my front yard and use sun light. I knew that I wanted to 
reflect light so I bought a couple of sheets of 2”x4” white foam-board 
from the local hardware store. After getting my things together I was 
ready to go try it out.<br />
<br /><span id="more-5834"></span><br />
<br /><h3>
The equipment:</h3>
<br />Two fold-open ladders<br />Two black bed sheets<br />A 8’ pole<br />String<br />Two sheets of 2”x4” white foam board<br />Tape<br />Tripod <br />Camera (Canon 10D)<br />
<br /><div style="text-align: center;">
<img alt="portraits-budget-2.jpg" height="472" src="http://digital-photography-school.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/portraits-budget-2.jpg" width="600" /></div>
<br /><h3>
The rigging:</h3>
<br />I setup my two “fold-open” ladders opposite each other and tied the 
8’ pole to the front edge of both. I tied a couple of weights to the 
bottom step of each ladder. I then taped the black bed sheet to the top 
of the pole across from one end to the other making sure to keep it as 
clean as I could. I found another black sheet to put on the grass in 
front of the backdrop.<br />

<br /><h3>
Lighting:</h3>
<br />Using the sun was going to be a challenge as it was one-directional, 
so I used the two sheets of foam-board to reflect the light onto the 
guys faces and add fill-in lighting. As I was shooting digital I was 
able to look at the results right away and change the angles right away.<br />
<br />Tip: If shooting outside have a small sheet you can pull over your 
head and camera when reviewing the shot on a digital camera, this will 
greatly help you see what you shot without the reflections and the sun 
light dimming your view.<br />
<br />I spent some time getting the look I wanted with and playing with 
angles. They had some black hats and clothing so I tried to create some 
trim lighting to make the hats and clothing pop from the black 
background.<br />
<br /><h3>
The shoot:</h3>
<br />I knew I was going to have to darken the background sheet in 
photoshop, so I made sure to keep it clean and smooth as much as 
possible. The creases could become a big job to fix in photoshop so I 
tried to keep them to an absolute minimum. During I took time to get the
 band guys to get comfortable and challenge them to try facial 
expressions and “looks” I wanted to make sure they would look like a 
band and not goofy. I had some sample photos that I would show them to 
see if they could duplicate. The funny thing was that within 30min a 
nice group of neighbors had come to see what we where doing. This was 
fun but also distracting, so I made sure that we stayed focused.<br />
<br /><div style="text-align: center;">
<img alt="portraits-budget-3.jpg" height="472" src="http://digital-photography-school.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/portraits-budget-3.jpg" width="600" /></div>
<br /><strong>Tip</strong>: As the photographer take charge, remember you 
are going to get the best results by keeping things under control and 
minimizing distractions. Also keep checking your shots for bad 
reflections, shadows, expressions and wardrobe issues. Remember, it’s 
better to fix right there than afterward in photoshop.<br />
<br />One of the guys wanted Latin text painted on his chest, we shot some 
shots but I thought it was to strong so at the end I suggested trying to
 put a T-shirt on over it and wet the T-shirt “just to see what it would
 look like” That shot really turned out great. Be flexible and try out 
some stuff (after you are sure you have want you wanted) in this case, 
wetting him would have hindered other shots we wanted had i not shot 
them first.<br />
<br /><h3>
The result:</h3>
<br />The shoot turned out to be great and a load of fun! I was very happy 
with the results and to this day people think it was shot in a studio 
with lighting equipment. The band was ubber happy and I was too. For a 
no-budget shoot and not having any pro-equipment the results were very 
convincing and opened the door for me to do some other paid shoots and 
actually buy equipment. Years later I now shoot with lighting equipment,
 but have to say that, that shoot was one of the most fun and a great 
paradigm shift for me.<br />
<br />As a photographer the tools you have are just that; tools. You can 
make great looking shots with some creativity and some random stuff 
around your home. Money and equipment should not limit you from pushing 
the limits. So go have fun with it.<br />
<br /><h3>
Update: A Diagram to Show How it Was Done</h3>
<br />We have had a lot of people asking if we could include a diagram of 
how this shoot was setup. Alexis has kindly put one together for you:<br />
<br /><div style="text-align: center;">
<img alt="portraits-diagram.jpg" height="392" src="http://digital-photography-school.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/portraits-diagram.jpg" width="600" /></div>
<br />___________________________<br /><br /><br />
<br /><em>Alexis Godschalk is a portrait and wedding photographer from Los Angeles California you can find some of his work at <a href="http://www.photo.net/photos/alexisgodschalk">photo.net</a>. Connect with Alexis via twitter at <a href="http://www.twitter.com/agodschalk">agodschalk</a>.</em><br />

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Shooting Portraits like a Pro On a Budget</h1>
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Photo Shooting Portraits like a Pro On a Budget

In this post portrait photographer Alexis Godschalk shares some tips on shooting studio like portraits on a budget by talkin...

Thursday, October 16, 2014

Posing Guide: Sample Poses to Get You Started with Photographing Women – Part II

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Posing Guide: 21 Sample Poses to Get You Started with Photographing Women – Part II</h1>
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<img alt="posing-guide-photographing-women-01.jpg" height="400" src="http://digital-photography-school.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/posing-guide-photographing-women-01.jpg" width="600" /></div>
<br />1. Good starting pose. And very nice way to make the model slimmer. 
The model should push her chin forward and tilt it slightly down while 
at the same time the shoulder up, but not too much! There should 
definitely be a little gap between chin and shoulder.<br />
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<img alt="posing-guide-photographing-women-02.jpg" height="400" src="http://digital-photography-school.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/posing-guide-photographing-women-02.jpg" width="600" /></div>
<br />2. Most often the best poses are the simplest ones. For female models
 supporting body on just one leg and curving the body in an S shape is a
 simple starting rule.<br />
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<img alt="posing-guide-photographing-women-03.jpg" height="400" src="http://digital-photography-school.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/posing-guide-photographing-women-03.jpg" width="600" /></div>
<br />3. Very beautiful way to utilize a wall or some object for a portrait
 pose. Model should gently touch a vertical surface with her hands. <br />
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<img alt="posing-guide-photographing-women-04.jpg" height="400" src="http://digital-photography-school.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/posing-guide-photographing-women-04.jpg" width="600" /></div>
<br />4. If your model has long falling hair, try showing them in motion. 
Ask her to quickly spin her head to a desired position allowing the hair
 to continue the movement. You might want to experiment with different 
shutter speeds to either capture or avoid a motion blur. These are 
usually very positive and rewarding shots.<br />
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<img alt="posing-guide-photographing-women-05.jpg" height="400" src="http://digital-photography-school.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/posing-guide-photographing-women-05.jpg" width="600" /></div>
<br />5. Suitable for sitting on a couch or in bed. In order to add some 
thematic depth, the model could hold a coffee cup in her hands, maybe 
implying that she is warming her fingers.<br />
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<img alt="posing-guide-photographing-women-06.jpg" height="400" src="http://digital-photography-school.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/posing-guide-photographing-women-06.jpg" width="600" /></div>
<br />6. A nice and cozy pose, very suitable for indoors with the model sitting on a couch.<br />
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<img alt="posing-guide-photographing-women-07.jpg" height="400" src="http://digital-photography-school.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/posing-guide-photographing-women-07.jpg" width="600" />7. </div>
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Another variation for a model sitting on a couch.
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<img alt="posing-guide-photographing-women-08.jpg" height="400" src="http://digital-photography-school.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/posing-guide-photographing-women-08.jpg" width="600" /></div>
<br />8. Very nice looking casual pose for a model sitting on the ground. 
Try different shooting angles, for example, move gradually around the 
model or change the shooting point’s height.<br />
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<img alt="posing-guide-photographing-women-09.jpg" height="400" src="http://digital-photography-school.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/posing-guide-photographing-women-091.jpg" width="600" /></div>
<br />9. Sitting positions are not limited to casual shots. Don’t be afraid to try some sitting poses also for more formal shots.<br />
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<img alt="posing-guide-photographing-women-10.jpg" height="400" src="http://digital-photography-school.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/posing-guide-photographing-women-101.jpg" width="600" /></div>
<br />10. According to some popular and commonly exploited body language 
rules, crossing arms and legs means putting up some barriers etc. Even 
if such beliefs are widespread, it doesn’t mean they are correct. In 
pictures crossed arms on the chest don’t send any subconscious signs or 
warnings at all! Crossing arms and legs in all different ways is 
absolutely fine for people photography.<br />
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<img alt="posing-guide-photographing-women-11.jpg" height="400" src="http://digital-photography-school.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/posing-guide-photographing-women-111.jpg" width="600" /></div>
<br />11. Not always your model needs to “place” hands somewhere 
specifically. It is absolutely fine to leave them loosely by the sides. 
The same goes for legs, no exaggerations – one leg supports the weight, 
that’s the only rule you need.<br />
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<img alt="posing-guide-photographing-women-12.jpg" height="400" src="http://digital-photography-school.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/posing-guide-photographing-women-12.jpg" width="600" /></div>
<br />12. Just another sample for a full height shot you can use as a 
starting point. Thumbs or hands partly in side pockets also work fine.<br />
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<img alt="posing-guide-photographing-women-13.jpg" height="400" src="http://digital-photography-school.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/posing-guide-photographing-women-13.jpg" width="600" /></div>
<br />13. A very nice pose for summertime. Let her lose her shoes and ask 
her to walk slowly. Walk and take your shots slightly from behind.<br />
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<img alt="posing-guide-photographing-women-14.jpg" height="400" src="http://digital-photography-school.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/posing-guide-photographing-women-14.jpg" width="600" /></div>
<br />14. Hands behind the back, unusual but very open gesture. She might as well stand and support herself against a wall.<br />
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<img alt="posing-guide-photographing-women-15.jpg" height="400" src="http://digital-photography-school.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/posing-guide-photographing-women-15.jpg" width="600" /></div>
<br />15. Very easy and beautiful pose for a formal portrait. Model should 
turn a little bit sideways, head turned slightly down and towards the 
camera.<br />
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<img alt="posing-guide-photographing-women-16.jpg" height="400" src="http://digital-photography-school.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/posing-guide-photographing-women-16.jpg" width="600" /></div>
<br />16. Placing both hands on the waist is also a very photogenic pose. Works well both for half and full height shots.<br />
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<img alt="posing-guide-photographing-women-17.jpg" height="400" src="http://digital-photography-school.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/posing-guide-photographing-women-17.jpg" width="600" /></div>
<br />17. If available, some higher furniture or interior object might be 
helpful to place an arm on and slightly support the body. This will 
create a formal but at the same time an open and positive posture.<br />
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<img alt="posing-guide-photographing-women-18.jpg" height="400" src="http://digital-photography-school.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/posing-guide-photographing-women-18.jpg" width="600" /></div>
<br />18. Partly sitting on some object is another very nice pose. Works well indoors as well outdoors in a city.<br />
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<img alt="posing-guide-photographing-women-19.jpg" height="400" src="http://digital-photography-school.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/posing-guide-photographing-women-19.jpg" width="600" /></div>
<br />19. An example of a feminine and fashionable pose for a full height picture.<br />
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<img alt="posing-guide-photographing-women-20.jpg" height="400" src="http://digital-photography-school.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/posing-guide-photographing-women-20.jpg" width="600" /></div>
20. Demanding pose, because indicating model’s movement is not easy. 
However, if done right, very rewarding for trendy fashion or very 
elegant full height shots.<br />
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<img alt="posing-guide-photographing-women-21.jpg" height="400" src="http://digital-photography-school.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/posing-guide-photographing-women-21.jpg" width="600" /></div>
<br />21. Lovely looking pose for the appropriate settings – the model is 
supporting herself against some fence or bridge railing or some similar 
object. Shooting from a side with a large aperture provides good 
opportunities for a shallow depth of field with a nicely blurred 
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Posing Guide: Sample Poses to Get You Started with Photographing Women – Part II

Posing Guide: 21 Sample Poses to Get You Started with Photographing Women – Part II 1. Good starting pose. And very nice way ...